THE PROCESS
DRAWING
Draw your image onto a block of wood, which needs to be sanded if it isn't smooth. You can draw with a pencil, but using a marker or sharpie pen will clearly show you which lines to cut. You can use any kind of wood
but keep in mind that the softer the wood, the easier the cutting but, also, the rougher the result. So, if you are planning a very detailed picture with many fine lines, use a wood from a fruit tree which is harder. More on wood
CUTTING
For carving you need at least three basic cutting knives: one for the outline, another for
removing wide unwanted areas and another for trimming waste near the printing areas. (you can get these knives from Dick Blick Art Materials )
You can hold your cutting knives either in your fist (for more pressure) or just like you hold your pen, for cutting with more accuracy. Now you need to cut around the black outlines keeping your knife at an angle to produce a bevelled edge on the final areas. The blade must go into the wood for about 1 or 2 mm. After oulining your design with this knife, remove all large areas of wood with a round chisel. For easier carving, follow the grain of the wood. At last, with the small flat chisel you need to remove the wood near your outlines carefully guiding the chisel with your fingers.
When this is done, you need to make "printing guides" or registration marks for your paper. You will need these to position the paper properly onto the block when printing. More about registration
PRINTING
You can use water based inks or oil based inks.
With oil based inks:
squeeze a dab of ink onto a piece of glass and spread it evenly with your brayer (do it horizontally then vertically). Roll the ink onto the woodblock coating the raised areas of your carving evenly. Place the paper (which has previously been moistened) down onto the block and keep it in place with your hands without removing it. To transfer your image you can use a baren or a spoon which you need to rub on the back of your print.
If you want to check your work so far, lift up one corner to see if you need more pressure or if your image is transferring evenly.
You can experiment by using different kinds of inks, different amounts rolled up as well as different kinds of wood.
You can use any kind of paper to print on, depending of the effect you want your print to have. The more common paper used for printmaking are Arches, Velin, Lana or thick papers with similar qualities that enhance the final visual result.
With water based inks:
It is a little more complicated. First of all you need washi paper (Japanese traditional paper) for woodblock printmaking which you need to moisten beforehand.
Colors: you can use common artist grade watercolors straight from a tube mixed with some water (the amount of water to add depends on how delicate tints you want your image to have - you need to experiment a little). You also need to prepare some household paste which you
Before starting to add color to your block, use a printing brush to moisten your block so that it will be ready to receive the color.
Put a dab of colour onto the woodblock and a dab of paste. (without this paste the colour will not print evenly). Mix and spread together colour and paste with your brush. Be gentle with the final strokes to smooth out the mixture. Do not wait until it gets dry: you need to move fast to the next step of printing. Place a piece of japanese paper previously dampened and cut to size, by sliding one corner into the "L" registration mark and the other side against the straight guide. Lock it in place and gently rub the back of the paper with your baren to print the image.
SEE ALSO:
How to make Japanese prints by David Bull
Process of making prints by David Bull
Woodcuts: studio Notes by Maria Arango
Wood Engravings by Andy English
REDUCTION PRINTS: process
Studio Notes: Reduction prints by Maria Arango |
